VIN Number Decoding For Classic Muscle Cars
One of the best pieces of advice I was ever given in regards to buying a classic
muscle car was to invest in high quality resource materials so I could crack the
code on Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) to make sure that I was not getting
scammed. Chevrolet by the Numbers, by Alvin Colvin, is the best book I have ever
found for Chevrolet part numbers, Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN), trim
tags, and model ID. If you are continuing to read this information, I can only
surmise that buying a classic muscle car with the proper numbers and matching
parts is important to you! I also recommend finding an expert or consultant on
your car, and buying a couple of hours their time, especially if you are looking
to purchase a special model classic car. Before I arrived the owner told me the
car was basically a roller project, meaning the engine and transmission were
removed from the car.
When I arrived at the location where the car was stored,
the first thing I did was to check the VIN number. The VIN number is probably
the most important number on a car. As a sidebar, any good resource book on your
particular make and model car will outline the way to decode your car, including
number locations and decoding info. I was able to determine that my car was
originally a V8, it was a 2 door sport coupe, made in 1969, assembled in Norwood
Ohio, and it was the 662,8XXrd car built at that plant in that year. I used my
flashlight to illuminate the numbers, and then copied the numbers into my
notebook. Some of the trim tag numbers matched up with the VIN tag numbers,
which was a good sign. The remaining numbers indicated that my car body was
number 353,XXX to come down this plant's assembly line. According to the
numbers, the car had originally started out as a plain Jane 6 cylinder car.
The
front engine pad numbers appeared to have been restamped at one time, maybe
after the engine block was decked (Decking in a machine process to check the
flatness of the block deck for irregularities that cause compression and water
leaks.) The tricky part is reading the numbers on the area above the oil filter.
The last numbers also corresponded with the last numbers in my VIN, which meant
this was the original engine to this car. The engine block part number that is
cast into the rear of the block was cleaned with a rag and brake cleaner as
well. The axle numbers also indicated the axle to be original to the car based
on the dates codes referencing June 1969 build date. The cylinder heads, intake
manifold, carburetor, and transmission were the correct part numbers for the
car. The reason I know all of these parts are not correctly date coded to the
car is I decoded each one, by researching the part numbers, and date codes.
During my investigating, I took pictures with a digital camera of all of the
parts and part numbers, as best as i could. GM also stamped hidden VIN numbers
in (2) different places on the car.
The reason for the hidden VIN numbers was to
add another step in preventing and identifying a stolen car. For example,
someone could possibly swap out a VIN tag, but if they didn't know about the
Hidden VIN numbers, a person in the know could easily identify the numbers not
matching up. Because the car was bought a roller project, it was easy to check
these hidden VIN's, against the VIN tag on the dash. And if you ever go to sell
the car, now you have documentation to provide the seller that the car is a real
(Super Sport, Rally Sport, Z/28, etc. In the above example about the couple and
the Chevelle, the car was priced as a Super Sport, yet the trim tag and other
numbers reflected a totally different story. Just to throw some numbers out
there, let's be conservative and say it takes 6 hours of research to decode a
car. As muscle and classic cars have become more popular, I have seen many cases
where just for the fun of it, an owner will start to do research on a car he or
she owns.
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